Viking Aircraft Engines for aircraft, Gyrocopters, Helicopters, powered parachutes, Jan Eggenfellner, RV-12, Sonex, Zenith, CH-750, Cruzer, light sport  

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Viking Engines

Viking Engines are CNC machined for a perfect fit and look

Thermostatically Controlled

Coolant temperatures is controlled by a thermostat for constant engine temperatures

Details

Every engine is precisely made and use only quality components

Tuned Intake

Viking Engines use a tuned intake for maximum performance and smooth operation

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Light  Sport  Aircraft  Engines

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Viking Engine Upgrades

 

 

WHY HAVE UPGRADES AVAILABLE?

Why not design the engine perfect in the first place?  Keep it off the market for another 10 years, then introduce it, when everything is "perfect".  Most people do not need to have this explained, but some do.  An aircraft engine is a moving target.  It can ALWAYS be made better.  It can be made smaller, lighter, less expensive, more powerful, better looking, stronger, safer, easier to operate and to install, more versatile and the list goes on.  It also has to continue being the best value and performance in the industry. 

 

So, the logical approach is:

  • Make sure the evolution of the engine design never stop improving

  • Keep all updates available to all customers, back to the very first engines

  • Those buying used, early model engines, can get it up to the latest configuration.

  • Known safety concerns can be posted and corrected.

 
  • During 2011 The Viking engine went from a prototype to a production engine
  • Changes that took place during 2012 - HERE
  • Changes that are happening in 2013 - HERE
  • Changes that are planned for 2014 - HERE
 
Oil Tank Dipstick / Engine breather system

MANDATORY UPGRADE: This system is now (late 2013) standard on every engine.  A larger engine breather help slow the flow of the crankcase gases, as they leave the engine, greatly reducing the amount of oil mist being carried along.  A graduated oil dip stick is also part of the system for easy reading of the required oil level.  SEE HERE FOR INSTRUCTIONS

 

Gearbox oil Sight Level Glass drainage correction

MANDATORY IF APLICABLE:  This upgrade relates to a few gearbox housings 2012-2013 where the oil level sight glass was not machined perpendicular to the ground.  The procedure will correct the likely scenario of gearbox oil filling the sight glass cavity, giving a possible false indication of the oil level in the gearbox.   SEE HERE FOR INSTRUCTIONDS

SEE HERE FOR PICTURES

 

Propeller Hub Update

NOT MANDATORY:  If your propeller hub seep a few drops of gear oil, an improved sealing surface is available on 2013 and later hubs.  Obtain a new hub and front gearbox seal from Viking and install as shown HERE.

 

Oil hose Routing

NOT MANDATORY, however a review to assure an equal level of safety, is.  This is a nice update and will organize the layout of the oil cooler hoses on the engine.  This is for a standard, side mounted oil cooler assembly.  Advantages are: Better looks, safer distance to important engine wiring from crankshaft pickup sensors and safer distance from oil tank pickup tube.  Also, installation eliminate the use of Adel clamps and make it much easier to install the oil filler neck assembly to the engine.  INSTRUCTIONS HERE

 

Engine Mount Rubbers

The Viking engine mounting rubbers work exceptionally well at damping the movement of the engine.  If you need to shim the engine up or down, or would like to make the mounts firmer, SEE HERE

 

Alternator

If your alternator has the ND sign embossed as shown, the alternator is a good quality unit.  If it does not, it is a copy and will fail around 40 hrs of operation.  Be sure to only fly behind the Nippon Denso unit.  Picture here

 

ECU 37 pin connector

Verify that all pins are pushed securely into the back of the connector, then add "the right stuff" sealer to the wires.  Let cure, then reassemble the shells.  Strain relieve the cable as it leave the ECU.  Picture HERE

 

Idler Pulley Security

Viking Safety alert

Take a look at your belt idler pulley.

  • Remove the pulley after loosening the belt
  • Be sure the bearing is Loctite to the aluminum pulley 
  • Do this by removing the snap ring to see if the bearing will move in /out
  • If the bearing is solid AND you see traces of Loctite around the edge, inspect every 100 hrs
  • If loose, clean with acetone
  • Apply green cylindrical retaining Loctite to bore 
  • Install bearing
  • Wipe excess Loctite'
  • install bearing
  • Reinstall pulley as before
  • Snug alternator belt and tighten alternator

 

 

NEWS FORUM WITH A LOT MORE PICTURES AND VIKING PILOTS NOW  HERE

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